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SHINE MASTER™	MIST-N-SHINE™	MULTI-FIBER™ CLOTH	WIZARDS® BUFFING SYSTEM	FINISH CUT™
TURBO CUT™	METAL CARE & MAINTENANCE	WIZARDS® WASH	CLAY MATE™	POWER CLEAN™
VINYL SHINE™	BLACK RENEW™	LEATHER PLUS™	WIZARDS® WATER BLADE	WATER BANDIT™
SUPREME SEAL™	SCRATCH REMOVER	BUG RELEASE™	AUTO FRESH™	MINI BUFFING SYSTEM™

WIZARDS^® SHINE MASTER™ POLISH & BREATHABLE SEALANT is a one step cleaner, polish and breathable paint sealant. It is recommended as a wax replacement, swirl mark remover or finishing glaze by hand or machine for the professional body shop technician as well as the average consumer. This polish contains a special polymer blend that provides an impressive high gloss on all types of paint: factory, custom, foreign and domestic. SHINE MASTER is safe and recommended for clear coats, stripes and decals. It also performs excellent on fiberglass, lexan, plexiglass and other non-porous surfaces.

This unique formula is NOT water-soluble and won’t wash away like most hand glazes and waxes. Its waterproof UV barrier protects from hard water spotting, acid rain, sun fading and more.

SHINE MASTER is body shop recommended as the finishing step to the WIZARDS TURBO CUT and FINISH CUT buffing system. It contains no wax or free silicones and has been safely applied to freshly painted surfaces in shops for years.

SHINE MASTER’s ease of use, gloss, and durability truly makes it the professional’s first choice.

If you can use any type of swirl mark remover, hand glaze or wax you can use SHINE MASTER. Just remember to follow paint manufacturers’ recommended dry times and don’t rush the process.

You mean SHINE MASTER can be used instead of a wax, or a hand glaze?

Absolutely. SHINE MASTER can replace several products and provide excellent protection. Even though it is not a wax, it can be used as a wax replacement. Actually many professional shops recommend this product to their customers simply because it is easy to use, has an awesome gloss and customers love it. They always come back for more, and tell their friends.

If SHINE MASTER protects like a wax doesn’t it seal off the fresh paint? How does the paint dry??

Great question! SHINE MASTER is a breathable polymer sealant. What this means is that the protective qualities are in the plastic family but they are not a film former. It does not totally encase the finish. It provides a micro thin layer of polyethylene polymer that creates a shingling effect with the ability to protect from the environment, but still allows the solvents to escape. Another example would be like a teepee that lets the smoke out, but won’t let the rain in.

If it’s in the plastic family, and won’t wash away like hand glazes, how do you get it off, if you have to apply striping or do some paint work?

Not a problem at all. You don’t need a special product just to get it off.

Simply use any type of grease, wax or tar remover available at any paint jobber or retail store, with an automotive or paint department. The body shops generally use the regular pre-cleaner or solvent recommended by the paint manufacturers, or the WIZARDS POWER CLEAN all-purpose cleaner.

OK, that sounds great, what’s the best way to use it?

To use the SHINE MASTER be sure to shake the bottle before using, apply the product to the applicator and spread evenly onto a clean and cool surface. I like to use the BLUE WIZARDS hand pad. The hand pad allows you to apply the product evenly, it is gentle on the paint, and eliminates the possibility of pushing too hard with your fingers.

Couldn’t you do the same thing with a regular cloth?

Well, you certainly can use a cloth, but with the pad, you can do a better job. Some people will not hold their hand flat and they will be applying the product with their fingers. That’s not the right way to do it. With the pad, the pressure of application is spread over a larger area. If I am working on something that needs more polishing, like a scratched area or faded paint, I think a cloth will help to restore that area faster because most cloths are a little more aggressive.

Just about any type of cloth will work for the application; however you do want to use a small piece, folded to fit in your hand. That way you have more control and won’t be wasting a lot of product by soaking it up a big towel.

That is why I like using the RYMPLE CLOTH. This cloth is a purified cheesecloth. It has a hundred pieces per roll, and because they’re pre cut, you always have just the right size, and won’t have any lint residue from a cut edge.

When using the cloth I always like to dampen it first. Like I mentioned earlier, always apply the product directly to the cloth and not to the surface itself.

Why is it important to put it on the cloth and not the car?

It’s always a good idea to put it on the cloth for a few reasons. First of all you won’t be using as much SHINE MASTER. For example, when you squirt it on the hood, chances are that the engine has created a lot of heat. The paint will be hot and the product will dry before you have a chance to spread it out. So now you’ve wasted product, there’s more powder dust to remove and you will be rubbing longer to get it off.

It’s best to hold your hand as flat as possible to the surface, and work the product in a circular motion. Do a panel at a time. For example, apply the SHINE MASTER to the fender and then to the door. By that time the fender will dry to a light white haze. Then simply wipe it off to a beautiful gloss.

Some people like to do the whole vehicle and then wipe it off, if that works for you, great; personally, I think it’s easier to do a better job a panel at a time.

What are you using to remove the polish? That’s not a regular cloth.

No, it’s our WIZARDS FOAM TOWEL; after the polish dries we recommend the foam towel for removal. It is very soft and gentle to the finish.

So you’re saying the best combo would be the FOAM HAND PAD and TOWEL?

Yes, definitely that would be your best choice, especially on the darker colors.

What about the RYMPLE CLOTH, or the traditional cotton cloth, diaper or bath towels?

Sure, they work fine for lighter colors, or most fully cured paints; however, when you’re working on fresh paint or a custom finish, the foam is going to work the best to eliminate any fine line scratches that the other cloths may give you.

One thing I like to do on the removal stage, whether I’m using the FOAM TOWEL or the RYMPLE CLOTH is to spray the cloth with just a mist of water. This acts like a magnet and eliminates any possible dusting or powdering that may be left around door handles or panel edges. Be sure not to overdo it though. If you get it too wet it can get a little smeary. If that happens, use another towel and let that one dry for a while.

Another option for removal is the WIZARDS MULTI-FIBER CLOTH; however, it must be washed after use (when used with SHINE MASTER).

Isn’t it a good idea to wash all cloths or towels after they’re used?

For the best results you should always use a clean cloth, but if you continue to use the MULTI-FIBER with the SHINE MASTER without washing, it will have a tendency to get a little gummy.

You’ve mentioned darker colors a few times, I’ve had trouble with some products streaking on my black Durango; will I run into that with the SHINE MASTER?

I’ve used and tested a lot of products through the years, and SHINE MASTER is one of best to use on black. Because all paints are not the same, some are going to require a little more attention to achieve that “ultra show gloss”. Sometimes when the humidity is high or it’s extremely hot, it may take a little more rubbing than normal to get it off.

If you would ever run into an application that wanted to leave a shadow or was more difficult to remove, you can wipe the surface down with a wet cloth. What happens is the fluids begin to dry at different rates, thereby leaving a streak until it dries. By wiping it down, you’re balancing out that dry time.

What about faded or dull paint? How does the SHINE MASTER work for that?

When working on faded or oxidized paint, you always want to “rub in” a small test area first. This will determine how much you will have to apply yourself to do the job. I’ll work in one area real hard just to see what it takes to bring out the shine. After working that area, (about the size of a football) you want to take a good look at what you’ve done. Sometimes you realize that you can back off a little, and sometimes you may have to rub it some more. When polishing on faded or dull paint the RYMPLECLOTH will help to bring it up a faster, because it is a little more aggressive than the foam pads.

What do you do if you rub real hard and it isn’t giving you the result you want?

If the polish isn’t giving you the result you want, then you’ll want to use to the FINISH CUT compound. Or if it’s really bad, the TURBO CUT, which is more aggressive.

If it looks faded, why not just start out with the compounds, why test with the SHINE MASTER?

Because a lot of times it’s hard to tell how the paint will respond, and you never want to take off more paint than you have to. You always want to start with the least aggressive product first. Sometimes it can be more work to take out the scratches from a more aggressive compound, than it would be to polish a little more with the SHINE MASTER.

What can I expect for durability? How long is it going to last?

On average you can expect about 3 to 6 months protection. But you have to consider how the product was applied, what condition the finish was in and what it’s been exposed to. A question I have is: How do you know if it’s protecting?

What do you mean? Give me an example.

For example, if the paint is faded and you don’t completely remove the oxidized paint, the application will not bond. A finish exposed to salt spray on the way to work and harsh chemicals at the (nylon brush) car wash is going to dull out much faster than the car driven by a little old lady from Pasadena.

Some people have the mistaken idea that if water doesn’t bead, then the product didn’t last. First of all the SHINE MASTER does need some time to cure. It can take 24 to 48 hours for it to fully cure, depending on the weather and temperature. If you’re in the rain, the morning after you polished the car you see the beads running off the hood. Then you wash it with hard water and it doesn’t bead. Remember, soft water is going to be much gentler than hard water. Just like on our skin.

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WIZARDS^® WASH SUPER CONCENTRATE

Another determining factor of durability is the type of wash used. Many people still use dishwashing soap. This is a mistake. Dishwashing soap has been recommended by paint manufacturers to help remove waxes before painting. Some have abrasives and chemicals that are not the best thing for your paint.

So what is the best car wash to use, that won’t take away the protection and shine?

We recommend the WIZARDS WASH - SUPER CONCENTRATE; it’s a power packed wash that delivers a gentle but thorough cleaning on all types of surfaces: cars, trucks, bikes, boats; most anything you want to wash.

The WIZARDS WASH has a thick foaming action that lifts and safely floats away dirt and grime without stripping away the protective qualities like a lot of the discount products you find on the shelves. It will rinse streak free, and offers quick drying with maximum shine.

Are you saying that all the discount washes will remove the protective qualities, just like the dish soap?

Well, the ones I’ve tried do. You can’t expect them not to, if they contain stuff like acids, abrasives and salt.

What do you mean, salt?

Yes, most car washes contain potassium chloride, or sodium chloride, which is salt. It’s a great way to make a cheap product. You would actually be washing your car with salt water, which is not the best for the vehicle or your hands.

We use only the highest quality materials and our wash is blended to a balanced pH so it’s not only safe for your finish but also your skin.

We also add Bitrex, which is a bitter substance to discourage ingestion by children and pets. Just because it looks good and smells good, it shouldn’t taste good.

So, you’re saying the WIZARDS WASH is going to cost more, but it’s a better product.

Well, it not only works better but you don’t use as much either. So, it really doesn’t cost any more in the long run.

You only need a small amount in a bucket; agitate it a little and you’re ready to go.

We recommend about a half ounce per gallon, maybe a little more with hard water. If you have access to soft water that would be better, but is not necessary.

For the best use, simply rinse the vehicle; apply the wash with a sponge, mitt or cloth and then rinse thoroughly before the vehicle dries.

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WIZARDS^® WATER BLADE

For quickly removing water from the vehicle, the WIZARDS WATER BLADE works excellently. The dual blades are soft, flexible and conform to most vehicle style lines.

Our blade has a couple of nice features, such as sliding dual blades for a wider sweep. It also has a shorter handle so it can get in tighter places without bumping against mirrors and other items on the car. And the blades are not only removable, but also guaranteed for life.

Won’t it scratch the paint, or is there a special way to use it?

The WATER BLADE itself is very soft and won’t scratch your paint. However, you do have to make sure the vehicle is rinsed clean so you don’t pull it across any dirt that could scratch it. This is true with anything you use, whether it’s a blade, chamois, or towel.

The right way to use the blade is to pull it, with the bottom of the blade pointed toward you, not away from you. Always make long sweeping passes starting from the top of the vehicle to the bottom.

When drying areas near a style line you can achieve better results by pushing the bottom of the blade into the style line area with you finger against the back of the blade, forcing it to follow the curve of the panel.

Besides removing water fast, is there any other advantage over using a chamois?

Well, one thing that’s nice; if you’re coming out of a car wash in a colder area, you can use the WIZARDS blade to remove water from the surface before it freezes. It can also keep your hands from freezing from the cold water, unlike chamois and towels.

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WIZARDS^® WATER BANDIT™

You could also use the WIZARDS WATER BANDIT, which is an all purpose synthetic chamois. It’s super absorbent and very gentle on sensitive paint. You can use it for washing, wiping, cleaning and drying.

It will not scratch, it’s easy to wring out and is unharmed by grease, oil and most solvents.

Can it be washed or do you just rinse it out?

For the best performance we recommend rinsing the WATER BANDIT with warm water before and after use. If and when it gets dirty you can wash it with soap in the sink, or just throw it in the washer. Just remember not to use bleach, or put it in the dryer.

What happens if you forget and it ends up in the dryer?

Well, generally it won’t hurt it. But it could crack because it gets pretty hard and brittle. If it does end up in the dryer you just have to soak it in water to soften it up, and return it to its original case.

So, do I use it like a chamois, or are there special instructions?

It really works best to keep it folded and straight stroke it across the surface; just like the WATER BLADE. This works much better then laying it out onto the surface and pulling it toward you like a regular chamois. Laying it out won’t pull up all the water and it will hop around because it is so soft and rubbery.

You can also use the MULTI-FIBER cloth, but that will load up with water quicker and you’ll have to wring it out more than the WATER BANDIT.

The cloth works best when used for final drying around edges, tight corners and moldings, after the WATER BLADE or WATER BANDIT.

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MIST-N-SHINE™ PROFESSIONAL DETAILER

MIST-N-SHINE Professional Detailer is WIZARDS’ best selling product. This highly regarded detailer is fast, fun and easy to use on all types of paint, glass, chrome or any hard surface. It’s so easy to use; just spray it on and wipe it off. It adds a show winning gloss and slickness to almost any type of paint.

You can use MIST-N-SHINE regularly to “quick dust” and give your vehicle that just waxed slippery feel and “wet look”, without scratching, streaking or smearing.

Because it contains no wax or abrasives it will never leave a telltale sign or white residue around emblems or moldings. That’s one reason why street rodders and bikers really love the product.

If the MIST-N-SHINE does all that, why would I want to use the SHINE MASTER?

Even though the MIST-N-SHINE is great and will do a lot, you still want to use the SHINE MASTER for its cleaning, polishing and protective qualities. It is recommended to use the polish occasionally for extended durability and protection.

Remember; if your paint is rough or faded the MIST-N-SHINE isn’t going to do much unless you make it smooth first.

So you’re saying that the MIST-N-SHINE doesn’t have any protective qualities?

It wasn’t designed for protection; however, you can expect it to make it through a couple washes. A good example is using it on your windshield. It’s so slick, the rain rolls right off the glass.

I know it works great for removing dust, what else will it take off?

MIST-N-SHINE will safely remove dust, bugs, mild road grime, fingerprints and even some light water spotting. It’s an anti-static gloss enhancer and is great for spot washing, or to use as a waterless wash.

You mean I can use this instead of washing my car?

You’ll be amazed at how much it can do, but if your vehicle is extremely dirty or muddy you should always wash it first. MIST-N-SHINE will work great for dust and road grime. And it really works well in between wash jobs, or right after washing to give it that just polished look.

You mentioned that it can be used on any hard surface; is there anything that I shouldn’t use it on?

This special formula is safe for all types of paint, clear coat, metals, glass, plastic and rubber trim. You can use it to dust off most anything; however, it may not shine on things like your dash, seats or tires. Obviously, you shouldn’t get it on your cloth seats or carpeting. It’s just not designed for that.

I’ve heard that a lot of body shops use the MIST-N-SHINE. Why is that?

It’s fast, it’s easy to use and it works. Literally thousands of shops use it as a finishing step after buffing, and before the vehicle is delivered. The product contains no wax, petroleum solvents or silicone, and is not only used, but also recommended by some of the top restoration experts in the country.

Before delivery, the MIST-N-SHINE can really be a time saver. Many times a shop will have a vehicle ready for customer pickup; and if that pickup time is delayed, the car can get full of dust from sitting around the shop. In a case like that the car can be wiped down in just a couple minutes and the customer is really happy.

That’s also a great time to demonstrate the MIST-N-SHINE to the customer, and sell them a bottle, so they can maintain their finish and keep your work looking good.

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WIZARDS^® MULTI-FIBER™ CLOTH

Are there any special tricks to the application? What’s the best way to use the MIST-N-SHINE? to use it?

Just shake the bottle a little, spray it onto a dry surface, and then wipe it off with the WIZARDS MULTI-FIBER Cloth.

The WIZARDS Cloth guarantees even application and fast drying. That way you eliminate the possibility of streaking, smearing or leaving an oily residue.

It’s always a good idea to fold the cloth, for a couple of reasons. Most importantly, when you fold the cloth, you have more of a cushion between your hand and the paint; that way you aren’t pushing with your fingers. Once again, it’s always best to hold your hand flat.

Another thing that can happen is that when the cloth isn’t folded, the tail will be trailing onto the ground picking up dirt.

What happens if you don’t have a MULTI-FIBER Cloth? Won’t it work with a regular terry towel?

Certainly you can use it with other cloths, but the WIZARDS cloth is strongly recommended. There are so many advantages over other wipers. Once you use the WIZARDS cloth, it will be impossible to go back to your old cloth. It just won’t work as well. As a matter of fact, I’ve had customers tell me that I shouldn’t even sell the Detailer without the cloth.

You mean to tell me that there is that much difference between your cloth and a terry towel? What can be so special about it?

For starters, just take a look at it. The regular cotton cloth has closed loops and they’re spread out pretty thin. Looking at the WIZARDS Cloth, you can see that there are a lot more fibers per square inch, and each fiber has another hundred coming off of it. What that means is that you have thousands of little cloth fingers working to pull up the moisture.

Here, let me show you; you won’t believe the difference. First I’ll use the MIST-N-SHINE with a 100% cotton terry towel. I’ll spray the MIST-N-SHINE on the surface and wipe it off using the terry cloth. As you can see it takes a lot of rubbing. Even flipping the cloth over, it takes a lot longer.

When customers use diapers or bath towels they need 2 or 3 to do the whole car.

Now I’ll do it again using the WIZARDS Cloth. Which one would you rather use?

Wow that’s great. You know, I’ve heard about the micro fiber cloths, what’s different about your MULTI-FIBER?

The WIZARDS MULTI-FIBER Cloth is truly a high performance version of the micro-fiber. It’s much more absorbent and its special blend fiber won’t lint or fall apart.

Unlike the smaller, cheap cloths, the WIZARDS cloth guarantees an even application without streaking, smearing, or leaving an oily residue.

Simply put: The MIST-N-SHINE and MULTI-FIBER combo can’t be beat.

Is your cloth washable or do you throw it away when it gets dirty?

It can be washed by hand or machine literally hundreds of times. By hand just rinse it out in the sink with hot water. Use a little liquid soap if you like, but let it air dry.

For machine washing, just throw it in with your jeans or work pants; use a liquid soap, but never use a fabric softener. It is always best to let the cloth air dry.

What happens if it gets in the dryer by accident?

I’ve put mine in the dryer and it works fine. If you machine dry it repeatedly, or use a fabric softener, it will not absorb as well. It may grab lint from other fabrics too.

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CLAY MATE ™

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POWER CLEAN™ ALL PURPOSE CLEANER

The POWER CLEAN All Purpose Cleaner and Degreaser is a safe and effective multi-purpose formula that penetrates and dissolves oil, road grime, brake dust and much more.

Its multi-purpose uses include pre-cleaning in the body shop for removal of grease, wax and silicone, safe and effective cleaning of interior seats, dashes and controls, carpet stain removal, wheel cleaning, and of course general purpose cleaning and engine degreasing.

How does POWER CLEAN work as a wheel cleaner? I know some products clean well, but they really dull out the polished aluminum wheels

Our formula is non-caustic, non-acid and biodegradable, which makes it safe for most any surface. The POWER CLEAN works great for painted, clear coated or highly polished wheels. And it also works great to clean tires, raised white letters and white walls. Other wheel cleaners may clean fast, but they dull the shine because their products are very caustic and dangerous.

When using the POWER CLEAN for wheels and tires do you have to scrub it, or just spray it on?

The best way to use the POWER CLEAN on wheels is to spray it on pretty heavily and let it soak for about a minute. You always want to spray it onto a cool and dry wheel, and then rinse it off.

Now if the wheel hasn’t been cleaned for a few months, you may have to scrub it down with a nylon brush or towel and give it a second shot. Same goes with tires; if the raised white letters are black you’re going to have to scrub them a little

You mentioned interior seats and dashes, what’s the best application for seats?

When using any cleaning product it’s always a good idea to test a small area first before full application. Some materials may be affected differently than others.

For leather, vinyl seats and dashes, spray the POWER CLEAN onto a small towel or sponge and wipe the surface. Then follow up immediately with a clean, dampened cloth to remove residue and contaminants.

It’s also a great spot remover for carpets. Just spray it on to the soiled area, let it soak in for a few seconds, and then scrub it with a white cloth. It’s important to always use a white cloth with stains and spot removal. That way you would never risk transferring dye from a colored cloth.

Every week we receive calls from customers who have discovered a new use for the POWER CLEAN. Use your imagination and let us know about a special use you’ve discovered.

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VINYL SHINE™ DRESSING & PROTECTANT

WIZARDS VINYL SHINE is a water-based dressing and protectant that penetrates and beautifies vinyl, leather, rubber, plastic and exterior trim.

This anti-static, non-greasy formula contains a special blend of conditioners that form a dry shield to protect against ultra-violet rays and contaminants that can permanently age, dull or damage an untreated surface.

So then it’s kind of like Armor All?

Actually it was developed for the same purpose as other Armor type products, but with a totally different result. The VINYL SHINE is a non-toxic formula; it’s not greasy or oily, so it won’t attract dust, it won’t sling off your tires, and it won’t mess up your paint. When doing your seats, another nice advantage is that it won’t transfer to your clothing.

It’s the only dressing that I’ve ever used on a motorcycle seat that won’t make it slippery.

What kind of look can I expect on my tires? I like them to shine but I don’t care for the plastic / greasy look.

You can get almost any kind of look you like; just by the way it’s applied to the tire. The more applications you give it, the higher the gloss. Some people like a high gloss and that can be achieved by allowing each application to dry and then reapplying the product. The more you put on the more it will shine. But it will always dry.

Do you recommend cleaning the tire first or just spraying it on?

For the best results it’s recommended that you clean and dry the tires first. You can use the POWER CLEAN and it will take off all the build up and road grime that you might have from other armor type products.

Apply the VINYL SHINE to a dry surface using our yellow sponge applicator pad. Always spray the product onto the pad and then wipe it on the tire. That not only gets the product on the surface, it eliminates the possibility of spraying it onto the wheels. It’s much faster and you won’t be wasting product.

After applying with the small sponge pad, is it best to buff it off with a dry cloth?

Because the VINYL SHINE will dry on its own, it’s not necessary to buff it off. I see people spraying tire dressings all over their tire and wheel, and then wiping it off into a rag, ultimately wasting their money.

Does the VINYL SHINE have any silicone? I’ve heard a lot about it. Is it good or bad?

It doesn’t have the traditional heavy oil based silicones. It does contain a small amount of water-soluble silicone, but it’s nothing like most other armor type products.

Is it good or bad? Well it’s good, if you want a product that works. In development I created formulas without any silicone and no one would buy it, because it didn’t work.

If you shop around and actually find a dressing without silicone you will find that it works about like plain water.

So then it shouldn’t be used in the body shop?

The VINYL SHINE is used daily in many shops without a problem, as long as it is in a controlled area and not used right in front of the spray booth. Final detailing should be done in a separate area regardless of what products you use. To paint prep a car where VINYL SHINE was used; just pre wash like usual and it will be ok.

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BLACK RENEW™

BLACK RENEW is a one step cream that cleans, renews and protects ALL COLOR exterior trim. Use BLACK RENEW to remove old wax and compound residue from moldings, bumper extensions, door handles, mudguards and anything plastic or rubber that needs restoring.

Does BLACK RENEW have any other uses? How about tires?

Some customers have used it on tires; however I think the VINYL SHINE does a better job. It does clean the white letters, but the POWER CLEAN is much faster. Other uses would be; wiper arms, louvers, air vents and black painted grills. It really works great on exterior moldings; either smooth or textured.

Does it work like a dye, what color is it?

It’s not a shoe polish or a dye; it’s a concentrated cream that works on all colors. And because it’s concentrated, it will go a lot further then the traditional spray products.

BLACK RENEW really does a good job for the body shop. For example if one molding has been replaced and the adjacent molding is faded, you can blend them together and make it look like new. It instantly removes embedded wax, compound or any discoloration from body side moldings. It cleans, rejuvenates and protects all in one.

What’s the best way to apply it? Does it take a lot of rubbing or do you just wipe it on?

I usually use the yellow pad; however, the RYMPLE CLOTH does work a little faster if you have a stubborn area. Usually you can just rub it onto the piece, but if you have a molding with old wax or compound buildup; then you’ll have to scrub until it’s gone.

Do I have to let it dry and then buff it, or can I just rub it on?

Usually just rub it on and that’s all that’s required. It can be buffed after application, but it’s not necessary. Some applications will soak it up faster than others.

How long can I expect it to last? Is it a one-time application or do I have to use it more often?

It’s not a permanent repair but it’s the best product I’ve ever found. How long it lasts really depends on how old the piece is. Most items will need an occasional touch up, but it seams that the textured moldings will hold the shine better than the smooth ones. Once it’s conditioned from several applications it will hold its color much longer.

In the body shop it’s a good idea to inform the customer that you used BLACK RENEW on their vehicle, and that additional applications would certainly extend the good appearance of the treated molding. That’s also a great time for the shop to retail the product to their customer.

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LEATHER PLUS™

The LEATHER PLUS is a high quality conditioning cream that will soften, beautify and protect all fine leather, naugahyde, and vinyl surfaces.

It has been formulated with a gentle balance of moisturizers and lanolin oils to create a penetrating “leather lotion”.

Because the LEATHER PLUS does not contain any petroleum solvents, regular use will soften leathers and can prevent cracking, dryness and the brittle results of sun damage and neglect. Also, without the solvents, repeated use will not damage the threaded stitching on your seats.

To treat the surface, apply a generous amount to the yellow applicator or cloth; then rub it in firmly onto a cool, dry surface. Then allow it to penetrate and dry for about five minutes.

Does it need to be buffed or will it dry?

No, it will dry, however, some surfaces may shine more when buffed, and others won’t. It really depends on what kind of leather or surface is being treated, and your personal preference.

Is it a good idea to clean the leather first, or does the LEATHER PLUS have a cleaner like the BLACK RENEW?

It does have some mild cleaning qualities; however, for a dirty surface, you really want to clean it with the POWER CLEAN first.

I have noticed that on leather, some cleaners and treatments actually make the leather dark or blotchy. Does the POWER CLEAN or LEATHER PLUS do that?

Well it can; that’s why it’s always a good idea to test a small inconspicuous area before full application. How it reacts really depends on what type of material it is. Many porous materials will turn darker because they are so dry; all leathers are different and may react differently. Most often it will resume to its original color when it dries.

Was the LEATHER PLUS designed specifically for automotive or is it ok to use for other applications?

In addition to automotive applications, regular use of the LEATHER PLUS will maintain all kinds of items including luggage, furniture and apparel.

Are there any items which it shouldn’t be used on?

Well, you never want to use it on suede or fabrics. Another area to be avoided would be something extremely aged, dried out or cracked from neglect.

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METAL CARE and MAINTENTANCE

For metal care, WIZARDS offers two different types of metal polishes, a metal sealer and metal buff kit.

I’ll explain the most popular first. And that’s the cotton cloth METAL POLISH. It comes in a treated cotton coil about four feet long. It is sold by weight at 3.3 oz. In comparison, other cotton polishes have 3 oz, or less per package. The special metal polish is impregnated into a surgical grade cloth, rolled into a coil, and heat-sealed into a special bag. We package it in a sturdy metal tin for easy storage.

To open the package you always want to cut it open at the top. That way you can roll the bag up and return it to metal tin. That way it won’t dry out.

What do you mean dry out? Is it going to dry out once it’s open?

Not if you keep it in its original package. In cases where the bag is left open for several days or left in the sun with the bag open, it will start to dry out. Once it’s dry, it’s not going to work very well.

If it dries out you can bring it back to life by adding just a few drops of mineral spirits. It will still work better than most polishes, however it’s not as good as it could be. Most people will dump way too much mineral spirits into the bag and it will be way too diluted to work properly.

The best thing is to follow directions and don’t leave it out of the bag. I’ve had an opened package in the warehouse for about five or six years. I use it occasionally and keep it as a test. I’ve always; just folded the bag and put it back in the tin, and it works like new.

So, you’ve got the package open, what is the best way to use the polish?

Simply tear off a piece about two inches, rub it into the metal you want to polish, take a cloth and wipe off the majority of the residue. Then turn the cloth or use a clean cloth, and buff it to a gloss.

Wow, it takes the paint right off the soda can, would that damage the paint on my car?

Not at all; first of all the color on a soda can isn’t paint, it is an ink process that isn’t nearly as thick as paint on a car. And even if you polished really hard on your paint, all it would do is act like a mild rubbing compound. It certainly wouldn’t take the paint off unless it was dangerously thin in the first place, which isn’t very likely.

The WIZARDS METAL POLISH will give you the fastest cut and brightest shine possible. There are a lot of different types of polishes out there; some cut fast but don’t shine. Others will shine great but you have to use something to make it cut first.

Is it just for aluminum, or will it work to polish other metals as well?

The METAL POLISH is excellent on aluminum, chrome, stainless, brass, copper, nickel, pewter, silver, gold; basically on any type of metal that can be polished you can use WIZARDS.

If you can’t shine it with WIZARDS METAL POLISH, it can’t be polished, or you’re not doing it right.

Just what do you mean, not doing it right? How can you do it wrong?

It is a polish, so you have to rub it in if you want the best results. If you don’t apply yourself in the process then you won’t get the results. Also, many times people will not get the best shine because they don’t buff it enough with the dry cloth. You really have to get the “wet” residue off and buff it with a clean, dry cloth.

Like with all the products, you just have to follow the directions. And if you do so, then you will get the best possible results.

Now, you said that you can polish any kind of metal; is there anything that you shouldn’t try and polish with the WIZARDS cloth?

Before any application it’s a good idea to think about what you want to do. For example: if you have a brand new piece of chrome, chances are the chrome doesn’t need any polishing. If the chrome has some fading or oxidation from storage; then metal polish makes sense. If the piece is like new then you can use the MIST-N-SHINE.

Some items should never be polished with our metal polish, or any type of polish for that matter. They would include: costume jewelry, (the cheap stuff) thinly plated silver or gold, like some household trinkets, and expensive show chrome. Another item to avoid would be gold plated wheels. There again, whenever in doubt, test it first in a small area.

What if I’m polishing a larger area; it looks like the cotton polish would be best for smaller areas?

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METAL RENEW™

The cotton polish can be used for any size area; however some people prefer to use the METAL RENEW for bigger projects. Others just like to use a liquid polish with their own cloth.

So is the METAL RENEW the same thing only in a liquid?

It does have the same abrasive mix, and for the most part; it offers the same polishing results. The METAL RENEW does have a thicker consistency and is not runny like most other liquid metal polishes. Although it should be shaken before use, it doesn’t separate in 20 seconds and have to be shaken constantly. With other liquids, if you knock the bottle over, it will run out like water and be wasted.

It is an easy to use liquid polish that will restore, shine and protect all types of metal surfaces.

Anything you can do with the cotton polish, you can do with the METAL RENEW. The main difference is that you use your own cloth and it does come off a little easier to bring up the shine.

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METAL BUFFS™

I see you have some buffing wheels for metal as well. Would they be used with the METAL RENEW?

Yes, the METAL BUFFS are used with a power tool and the METAL RENEW for fast effective polishing on all types of metal surfaces. You can use the METAL BUFFS for heavy duty polishing to remove scratches, heavy tarnish and oxidation.

Do you have to use a special type of power tool with the METAL BUFFS?

They have a smaller ¼ inch shank so you can use them with almost any kind of drill or air tool.

We offer 6 sizes and styles; each for a different application and use:

The FELT BOB is the smallest one and is great for tight areas where the others won’t fit.

The LONG NON TAPERED BUFF is available in two sizes: 1.5" and 2.5" and is recommended for general polishing and inside cutouts like the holes in truck wheels.

The LONG TAPERED BUFF (2") works well for general polishing and some tighter areas that the NON TAPERED BUFF wouldn’t fit into.

The MUSHROOM BUFF is also available in two sizes: 3" and 4". These two are not wrapped as tight; they are a lot fluffier and are great for finish buffing. They do lint a little because they are designed to be softer and take out some of the fine line polishing scratches you can get from the more aggressive buffs.

What’s the best way to apply the polish? Would you want to apply it to the buffs or the metal?

Well you could probably do it either way, but it’s a lot easier to put the polish on the metal surface and then spread it out a little with the buff.

You can really work it in and put pressure on the buff. This really speeds up the polishing process and gets it done quickly.

Those Buffs really get black after just a small amount of use, is there a special process for cleaning them?

They’re always going to get black when polishing metal. It doesn’t affect the process and you really don’t have to worry about cleaning them. If they get matted down from a lot of hard use you can rub across the buff with a metal brush to fluff it up a bit; but it’s still going to get dirty looking.

OK when finishing up, you said to always use the softer MUSHROOM BUFF; after that, are we done or is there another step?

I think it’s always a good idea to go over it with a quick application of the METAL RENEW by hand. This will take out any smaller swirls you might have from running the METAL BUFFS across the surface to fast towards the end.

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POWER SEAL™

After any metal polishing project it’s always a good idea to seal off the metal surface with WIZARDS POWER SEAL. That will give you an environmental shield that helps retain gloss and resist tarnishing.

Although the POWER SEAL is not a metal polish, it does have a very small amount of polishing action that helps to maintain a smooth, glossy, metal finish. It should never be used to remove oxidation; it should only be used to maintain the polished metal.

For example; rather than polishing your wheels once or twice a year after they look terrible, you can simply use the POWER SEAL occasionally and your wheels would always look good.

If you’re suggesting using the POWER SEAL occasionally why not just use the polish? Doesn’t that protect too?

The METAL POLISHES do protect to a certain extent, but the POWER SEAL is easier to use and will extend that time frame. Just because you use a sealant doesn’t mean that you never have to do anything again.

All surfaces, whether paint, plastic, or metal, need some type of care to maintain a smooth look. It really depends on what you’re doing with the vehicle and what it’s exposed to. Once again, driving through salt slop in Minneapolis will shorten the life of anything. Compared to a show car that’s rarely driven, it’s obvious one will need more maintenance.

The bottom line is that the POWER SEAL is very easy to use; it saves time in the long run and keeps your metal looking good a lot longer. As far as how often do you have to use it? The answer is: often enough to keep it protected. I will wipe down my wheels every other time I wash the vehicle.

An important thing to remember is that the POWER SEAL does have a curing time. It takes about 24 to 48 hours for the sealant to cure. That’s important because the protective qualities won’t have much of a chance if you wash your wheels or drive in the rain right after you apply it.

Isn’t it kind of like the SHINE MASTER SEALANT? Couldn’t you use that too?

It works very similarly, and yes you can use that as well. However there are some major advantages. It does have more sealant quality than the SHINE MASTER and the small amount of polish in the POWER SEAL is targeted for the metal sealing process.

By the way, using the POWER SEAL on your paint isn’t going to hurt anything either; it just may take a little more rubbing to get it off.

What’s the application? Do you just put it on and leave it, do you wait for 48 hours, or do you wipe it off right away?

Before using it you should shake the bottle a little. Then pour the POWER SEAL onto a small cloth like the RYMPLE CLOTH; rub it, in a back and forth motion, let it dry for a minute or two, then wipe off the residue with a clean dry cloth and you’re done.

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WIZARDS^® BUFFING SYSTEM

The WIZARDS BUFFING SYSTEM has been regarded by many painters and restoration experts as the best finishing system available today.

FINISH CUT™

The key product in the system is the FINISH CUT compound. The FINISH CUT will deliver high gloss finishing while leveling to remove 1200 grit or finer sand scratches on fresh paints.

FINISH CUT is amazing because it can actually be used as a one step compound and eliminate the need for several different products.

When using the correct pad for the job, FINISH CUT will not only remove sand scratches and level the finish, but it will leave the paint finish with an extremely high gloss without the regular swirl marks left behind from other compounds.

After the job is done, clean up is very easy. The FINISH CUT leaves very little dusting, and powder is at an absolute minimum. It is a water-soluble formula; so it cleans up easy with water, without staining or etching.

You mentioned fresh paints, are you saying that the FINISH CUT will only work on fresh paint?

Not at all, The FINISH CUT will work great on all types of single stage, clears and OEM factory finishes; weather they are fresh or aged. The thing to remember is that fresh paint is always going to be a little softer; when compounding, it cuts faster and scratches easier. Because the FINISH CUT formula doesn’t have the traditional rigid abrasives, it finishes off without the swirls, making it an excellent choice for fresh paint.

You said it doesn’t contain the traditional, rigid abrasives; what kind of abrasive do you use that makes it work?

The FINISH CUT does have a series of non rigid abrasives that start out with more cutting power and then break down into a polishing stage as it’s used; thereby giving you the best possible initial cut along with an excellent finished gloss.

The FINISH CUT does not contain any wax, silicone, or crystalline silica; which is the rigid abrasive. Buy the way; crystalline silica is not only a scratchy abrasive but the dust generated by it has been linked to some forms of lung cancer. That’s why a mask should be worn when working with those products.

I see that WIZARDS has buffing pads too. Can the technician use his regular pads, or do you have to use the WIZARDS PADS, and how do you choose the right pad for the job?

You can certainly use any kind of pad you want; you just won’t get the proven results that we have spent years to perfect. I know what some customers say: “You just want to sell your pads”. Many times customers will say they have their own pads, so they don’t want to invest in the right pad for our system. Then after they try it, they tell me they’re disappointed. I know that if they start out using the right pad, and our technique, they will be a customer for life.

OK, I’m not a buffer but I’ve watched people buff, and it all looks like the same technique to me. What’s so special about your technique and how do you use the FINISH CUT for the best results?

All right, I’ll get into the proper use of the FINISH CUT and the WIZARDS BUFFING SYSTEM in general; including the TURBO CUT compound and our WIPE DOWN INSPECTION DETAILER

It amazes me how many people ask “What do you have for swirls after buffing”? My answer is always the same. If you use the right compound, you won’t have swirls. They always look at me with a puzzled look of disbelief. Then I show them.

First off, you always want to start with a clean surface. You can’t expect to remove swirls if dirt or coarse compound dust is pulled into the work area.

When wet sanding or DA sanding, always finish off with 1500 or 2000 grit sandpaper before buffing. If you want to cut it down with a course grit paper first, that’s OK, but you’ll always have to sand with the finer grit to remove the deeper scratches. Remember; it’s easier to sand than it is to buff. So why not spend a little more time sanding and less time exercising your back?

A side note about sandpaper: American and Japanese manufactures do not rate their paper the same. For example: An American 2000 grit scratch will be easier to buff out than Japanese 2000 grit. It is true that the Japanese paper has more uniform abrasive, and won’t have the “random sharp edge” to give you a deeper scratch. What the do have is all the abrasive pieces in alignment, and they all cut with the sharp edge. True, they may cut a little faster at first but so would an American grade with a lower number. So what I’m saying is if you’re sanding with 1500 grit and you think it takes too much buffing to get the scratches out, finish with a finer grit. Find a combo that works best for the paint you use.

OK, here is the technique that works best with our compounds. Apply the FINISH CUT compound generously to one spot on the panel. I’ll start out with a spot about the size of a 50 cent piece or larger. Remember; if the pad is new, it’s going to take more compound to load the pad. A dry pad is going to soak up more product than one that’s already wet. So it’s better to use more, than less, especially when starting out.

What you don’t want to do is apply the FINISH CUT in ribbons or specks and then spread it out over a large area.

“Old school” teaching says: Spread it out all over, then buff lightly because applying pressure will cause swirls and burn the paint. That’s what happens with the outdated, oil based compounds using sand for an abrasive.

WIZARDS compounds are based on water-soluble formulas using the latest abrasive technology. This combination can yield awesome results, when following the recommended technique with our pad system.

Why is it so critical, how the compound is put on the paint?

If you apply ribbons or specks, you end up buffing a larger area. When you do this you can’t really concentrate on one area and you dissipate your efforts. When you buff larger areas at a time the abrasive begins to break down before it has a chance to do its job. You want to get as much cut as possible before the abrasive breaks down into the polishing stage.

This method is a little different, but it makes the big difference. It is a key factor in getting the best and fastest results with the WIZARDS compounds.

You always want to start out with the WIZARDS FINISH CUT WOOL PAD. Adjust the speed from 1800 to 2000 R.P.M. and position it over the compound at the 2 o’clock position about half way from the center to the outside edge of the pad. Hold the pad flat to the surface and apply pressure. If you have a variable speed buffer, start out slow and go to full speed. Slowly move the pad while applying adequate pressure to remove scratches.

Work the buffer with an overlapping motion within a couple square feet at a time, adding more compound as needed. Move on only after the scratches have been removed. When you see the scratches melting, lighten up on the buffer but continue with slower movements, adding more compound as needed. Never dry buff once the scratches are removed. Dry buffing will produce additional marks from the pad.

Whatever you do, don’t whip the buffer back and forth, riding the edge of the pad over the entire panel. Some guys buff like they’re trying to get an aerobic workout. This is a great way to waste time, splatter product and scar the finish with swirl marks.

Now the pad you’re using is wool and it’s just for the FINISH CUT compound?

It’s more than just a regular wool pad. It’s actually a wool and polyester blend. This pad is a proprietary blend, with 25% more yarn that other similar pads. The FINISH CUT pad is great for the first step with either the FINISH CUT or the TURBO CUT compound. It really is the best of both worlds because it will cut like a cutting pad but it finishes off more like a finishing pad.

WIZARDS also offers a regular, short nap wool pad. Some people like to use that with fully cured high solid clears; which can be harder to buff. Theoretically, the shorter the yarn is on the pad, the faster the cut. On some applications it works pretty well; but you may want to continue with the blend pad after its use.

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TURBO CUT™

You mentioned TURBO CUT, when do you recommend using that?

The TURBO CUT is more aggressive than the FINISH CUT, and will offer a faster cut; however, on the majority of finishes (especially fresh paint) you don’t want to go through that extra step if you don’t have to. The TURBO CUT does do an excellent job on fully cured, badly faded, or deeply scratched finishes. It also is the best choice for Marine fiberglass and gel coat.

Once again; old school teaching says; cut the paint with 1000 grit sandpaper and use a very aggressive compound to get the scratches out. Then follow up with 2 or 3 additional products to get rid of all the swirls. As I mentioned earlier, it’s a lot easier to sand a little more with a finer paper than it is to go through the buffing process with unnecessary products and steps.

The bottom line is paints and applications change. All types of paint do not respond the same and what works for one may not work for another. But what you want to do is try our system with both the FINISH CUT and the TURBO CUT and follow the steps that work best for the paint you use.

So even though the TURBO CUT is more aggressive, would you still use the same application technique or would you make some changes?

The TURBO CUT uses the same water-soluble technology; the ratios are quite different and the abrasive mix is obviously different but the same application technique applies.

The only difference would be the end result. If it cuts a little more, it finishes off with a little less gloss than the FINISH CUT. It still offers more gloss than the competition but most people will want to continue with the FINISH CUT for the ultimate finish. It really depends on the shop or technicians quality standards.

When you buff with the WIZARDS products using this technique, doesn’t it take a lot longer? After all you are moving a lot slower and it seems like you have to spend more time on one area.

No it doesn’t, slowing down on back and forth movement doesn’t take any longer. It produces superior results, and can actually save a lot of time because you can eliminate extra steps by not having to buff the same area over and over with a different product.

In addition, using the WIZARDS system properly can eliminate customer come backs because of re-surfacing swirl marks after the customer washes their vehicle.

When you’re buffing, it seems hard to tell when you’ve done enough in one area, how do you know when to move on?

Well, that’s a question a lot of guys never figure out. That’s why they keep going over and over the same area and still miss spots.

The best tool available for buffing is not something you can buy. It is your eyes. The operator has to look at the work from different angels, with the light reflecting from another direction.

That’s another reason it’s so important to use the right cloth. After buffing a section, the residue has to be removed so you can see what is completed and what needs more attention. If you’re using a cloth that doesn’t absorb much, you have a surface with a lot of smudges.

So, the next step after buffing with either the TURBO CUT or the FINISH CUT is to wipe down the area with the MULTI-FIBER cloth?

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WIPE DOWN™ INSPECTION DETAILER

Actually, the best way is to wash the surface first and then dry it. That way you are sure that some of the scratches aren’t being hidden. But an easier and less messy way; is to spray the surface with WIPE DOWN Inspection Detailer. And then wipe down the panel with the MULTI-FIBER cloth. After cleaning the surface, inspect it for any scratches or imperfections that have been missed. This should be done occasionally to inspect your progress, and before using a different product, or pad.

Why couldn’t you just use the MIST-N-SHINE? I know that you explained the differences between the WIPE DOWN and the MIST-N-SHINE earlier; but wouldn’t it work here too?

Actually some guys do, but they’re defeating the purpose because the MIST-N-SHINE actually helps to hide the swirl marks and fine line scratches. While the WIPE DOWN will remove the oils left on the surface from compounding. The WIPE DOWN has no enhancement qualities. But the MIST-N-SHINE adds a gloss and a slick feel. I guess if you wanted to hide the marks instead of removing them, that’s what you’d do.

Could the WIPE DOWN be used for other cleaning jobs or is it just for the buffing process?

The WIPE DOWN is not an all-purpose cleaner like the POWER CLEAN. It has a less aggressive cleaning ability that works best to remove dust and oily residue from the compounds.

Other uses would be for removing the oily residue buildup from repeated wax or detailer applications at car shows. Sometimes enthusiasts will trailer their car to a show for years, applying waxes at every show and never washing them. The WIPE DOWN will remove the oily residue without taking off all the shine and protection.

Applying decals or vinyl lettering onto paint or glass is much easier when first wetting both surfaces with the WIPE DOWN, applying the vinyl and then pressing out the liquid with a squeegee. It eliminates the frustration caused by wrinkling, repositioning and air bubbles.

It has also been reported to work well on a satin primer finish without getting blotchy.

What is a satin primer finish?

Satin primer is basically a car without paint. It is just primed. Some of the street rodder guys want the “50’s in progress look” and run their car on the street with primer. Using the MIST-N-SHINE on the primer just doesn’t work.

OK, you have done your buffing, wiped it down and done the inspection. It looks great! Is that it?

Using the FINISH CUT compound and pad combo will do an excellent job, and some shops have told me; that’s all they do on the light colors. Although, if done properly it will look great; there is more that is needed. That’s where the foam pad comes in.

After you’ve buffed out the sand scratches and imperfections, you want to remove any marks the blend pad may have left and take it to a higher level of gloss.

This is another part of the WIZARDS technique that’s a little different. Not using a foam pad, but using the same product with two different pads. The traditional method is to use a different product with each pad.

Now you’re going to use the same FINISH CUT compound with a foam pad. How do you determine which foam pad to use?

It really depends on the type of paint you’re working with and how fresh or cured it is.

The YELLOW cutting pad is made from a high density foam that is very stiff. The WHITE polishing pad is not as stiff and will not have as much cutting power. And the GRAY polishing pad is very soft.

In almost all situations, the YELLOW foam is the pad you want to use after buffing with the polyester-wool blend pad (the FINISH CUT PAD). Because all paints are not the same, sometimes the WHITE foam does a better job. For example: If the paint is really soft and more sensitive to scratching, the softer WHITE foam would not leave light scratches like the YELLOW foam. Once again, it comes down to looking at the surface and paying attention to what you’re doing.

What about the GRAY foam pad; where does that fit in?

Its use is pretty much limited to applying the SHINE MASTER Polish & Sealant. The GRAY foam is so soft that is doesn’t provide any cutting power like the YELLOW or WHITE foam pads.

Only on an extremely rare occasion would I use the FINISH CUT compound with the GRAY pad. It would be in a situation where nothing else was working to eliminate the fine line scratches when buffing. In thousands of demonstrations in Body Shops I have only used the GREY foam pad with the compound a couple times.

What would cause the paint, in those situations, to be so sensitive?

It can be a variety of things. The most obvious is improper mixing ratios of the paint, solvent and catalyst, using the wrong solvent, or mixing components that aren’t compatible, such as different brands or generic catalyst. Drying time between coats, humidity and temperature certainly have an effect as well.

All right, you’ve completed buffing with the FINISH CUT pad, and have chosen the YELLOW foam pad. What’s next?

It’s simple. You follow the same process, with the same FINISH CUT compound, only using the foam pad. That’s what’s different. We recommend one compound with two different pads. Using this process you will never have the problem of pulling a more aggressive abrasive into the next step. That’s exactly what happens a lot of times (with other systems) when the operator doesn’t wash down the area before going to the next step.

Apply the FINISH CUT compound generously to one spot on the panel. You start out with a spot about the size of a 50 cent piece, or larger. Remember; if the pad is new, it’s going to take more compound to load the pad. This is true with the foam as well as the wool pads, because they are both more absorbent when new.

Now, when you use the YELLOW foam pad for the first time, it may seem almost too stiff. It will soften up after it’s used a little bit, and feel more comfortable.

Something you can do to break it in is to run a piece of 60 or 80 grit sandpaper over the surface as you run the buffer, following the concave shape. You can also round off the pointed edge of the pad if you don’t like it.

After using the sandpaper and after using compound, you always want to spur the foam pads clean, with a WIZARDS CLEANING BRUSH. This is a stiff bristle, nylon brush that won’t tear or damage the pads.

When this process of the FINISH CUT and two pads are followed correctly, it will produce show quality results every time. It’s the key to a super shine and swirl mark elimination.

You’ve mentioned swirl marks a number of times; what causes swirl marks?

Swirl marks can be caused by a few things. Generally a scratch of some kind caused by something abrasive rubbed into the paint. There is a difference between a swirl mark, pad marks and compound residue. They all can leave the paint with a poor appearance.

Deeper swirls are usually generated by using a compound with a very course abrasive that doesn’t break down well. Swirls can be the result of a sloppy buffing technique as I mentioned earlier, or simply not cleaning the surface properly between steps. Pad marks are generally not as deep and are caused by dry buffing: continuing to buff after the compound is gone from the surface. It’s also a good idea to wash and spur the pads when they become matted down and loaded with product.

Residue is just that. It looks like a panel full of swirls; if the compound is removed from the paint surface it usually looks good. Residue isn’t really a problem; it’s usually brought up when someone is judging the work before it’s completed.

Well, after the FINISH CUT and the two pads, it looks great. There really isn’t a need for a hand glaze to remove swirls, is there?

No, if it’s done properly, you don’t need a hand glaze. However it is a good idea to finish the job, with an application of the SHINE MASTER. This will give it a good protective coat, and make it shine even more!

Is this where you would use the GRAY foam pad, with the SHINE MASTER?

Yes you can, but if you do the compounding properly all you really need is a quick hand application with the foam HAND PAD. It’s much faster with less effort.

If the technician chooses to buff the SHINE MASTER, it should be used more sparingly than the compounds. It doesn’t have the abrasive like the compounds and is a lot more slippery, so it will spread out quickly and cover a larger area. You would still use the same approach; you just wouldn’t use as much product.

Couldn’t you finish the job with the MIST-N-SHINE in place of the SHINE MASTER, for the final detail?

Sure, some guys like to use the MIST-N-SHINE for the final step. That works great to clean up the whole vehicle; remove any dust and compound residue and give the vehicle a super gloss all at the same time. It’s actually a little faster than the SHINE MASTER. The only difference is that the SHINE MASTER will offer more of a long-term protection coat, whereas the MIST-N-SHINE will be more short term.

You could also use both if you wanted to, putting down the protector coat with SHINE MASTER and then a quick spray with the MIST-N-SHINE Detailer, but you must be certain to use the MULTI-FIBER cloth. If you don’t, you’ll wind up with a lot more work and oily residue to remove.